MW Mobile Blog

For friends, family and the random search engine visitor. This blog started as an experiment in mobile blogging from my Palm TREO 600, 700, Prē, HTC Evo, Samsung 5, Pixel 3, Pixel 6 Pro, Pixel 9 Pro XL. Now it serves as a simple repository of favorite activities. Expect bad golf, good fishing, great sailing, eating, drinking, adventure travel, occasional politics and anything else I find interesting along the way including, but not limited to, any of the labels listed here...
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Departing Paris

Sigrid in the window of our hotel in Paris, shortly before we leave.Bags are packed and in the lobby, waiting for the taxi.

Au Revoir to Paris as we depart Charles DeGaulle airport - Philly is 7.5 hours away. San Francisco another six hours after that.

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

The Last Supper - Paris Edition

After four and one half hours at the museum, we went back to hotel to begin packing and rest before dinner. For our last dinner in Paris, we had the opportunity to apply one other bit of good advice from Vincent from the day before. We told him that we traditionally enjoyed a “Fruit de Mer” platter whenever we were in Paris. Vincent said the only place to go was the original “Le Bar a Huitres” in the 4th Arrondissement.



And so, our final gastronomic extravaganza before heading home, was the...

“Plateau Geant"
1 crabe ou 1 araignee, bulots, bigomeaux, crevettes grises, crevettes roses, 6 moules d'Espagne, 6 amandes de mer, 2 clams, 11 huitres creuses no. 4, 5 belons no. 5.





It was just friggin' great.

The remains of the day.

Musée du quai Branly

Our last full day in Paris. We spent most of the day exploring the Musée du quai Branly. This new state museum opened its doors in June 2006, and is focused on primitive art. Since primitive art is a passion of Sigrid's, and we have done some collecting of our own in our various travel adventures, it was a must see for our short stay in Paris. Vincent (our conversational companion at the Brasserie Isle Saint-Louis the day before) was effusive in his praise for the museum, calling it unique and the best museum in Paris.

It was not like any art museum we have ever seen and lived up to its advance billing. Much effort and thought have gone into integrating audio, video, and digital features into the displays, providing a truly unique perspective and experience. As an example, a display of Dogon masks are supplemented with video of the traditional Dogon dance, as it was recorded in the 30's the 70's, and in 2001. This was a particularly interesting exhibit for us, as we visited the Dogon escarpment and observed their traditional dance last fall.

A NYT Review provides some background information on some interesting politics surrounding the museum's creation, and the legacy that Jacques Chirac hoped to create for himself with its construction. I also learned from the article that "primitive art" is a pejorative and no longer politically correct. Who knew?

Vincent also suggested that we get there early before the museum opens to avoid the lines, so...

... we were que'd up when it opened at 11.

First stop was the museum cafe (located on the grounds but not actually in the museum) for coffee, croissants and pictures. Note the interesting tower in the background. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the tower displayed outside the Paris Casino in Las Vegas. Not sure why the French are copying Las Vegas casinos. Then...

... into the museum itself. There were signs prohibiting photographs, but I interpreted that to mean only pictures without flash when security was not looking. I took a few discreet shots as we toured the museum:

This was part of the Dogon mask exhibit. Sigrid and I bought a mask on our first Africa tour that we were told was Dogon in origin. After our visit to Mali in the fall, we did not see any masks that resembled the one we have on display at home (left). However, this one on display in the museum, though obviously much older, is remarkably similar.

This crystal skull is displayed in the America's section. The display has been used to promote the museum, capitalizing on the recent Indiana Jones movie, but the description casts doubt on the authenticity, saying that it was probably fabricated in the early 19th century.

An interactive video display to show the journeys of exploration where many of the Oceania and Asian pieces were collected. Unfortunately, in the middle of the display is a large dialog box saying “Windows Error”. They should have used Macs.

An exhibit of Papua New Guinea war shields and drums (ok, I screwed up - I thought the flash was turned off). I believe these shields are from the Western part of Papua New Guinea, and are somewhat different in design than the shields we procured in the Sepik River area during our trip three years ago (left).

An out of focus shot of a "spirit hook" from Papua New Guinea. To be precise, it is not a focus problem but motion blur, as I could not hold the camera still enough. Sorry, it was the best I could do under the circumstances. You try sneaking shots in low light with a point and shoot camera. If you click on the picture to expand it, you can see reflection of the furtive photographer on the left side using an underhand point and click technique. Despite the poor quality, I decided to include the picture because of the similarity to a piece we collected (left) on the trip to New Gunea.

We spent considerably more time at the museum than we planned, so decided to forgo a return visit to Musee d'Orsay, head back to the room and pack for the journey home.

Monday, June 16, 2008

l'Isle Saint-Louis

One of the odd things about Paris - at least in this neighborhood - it is practically impossible to find somewhere to buy coffee "to go". By this I mean coffee in a paper cup with plastic lid. You know, like you get from Starbucks. Don't get me wrong, the coffee in Paris is great, as good or better as anywhere in the world. You can get great coffee or espresso drinks on practically every street corner, but just try and walk out of a cafe with a tall cup of coffee in your hand. I don't get it.

We walk to the the l'Isle Saint-Louis, stopping for a coffee at cafe near the hotel.By the way - one cafe creme, one capuccino cost 10.30 Euros, which at current exchange rates, comes up to $16.70 at a corner cafe. Plus tip. Starbuck's got nothing on these guys. Thank you George W. Bush, for converting the dollar into a 3rd world currency in seven short years.

Exploring the Isle was a pleasure. It was a part of Paris we had overlooked on previous trips. Quaint shops and restaurants, interesting apartments, and a seemingly slower pace with lighter crowds. We came across several fashion photo shoots qround the isle. The reduced traffic and great backgrounds must make it a preferred location.

We stop at a charming little shop "La Petite Scierie" specializing in duck delicacies. The proprietor - Paul Duoys - prepares the foie gras himself from his 20 acre farm. He was a delight. We buy a couple of jars of preserved foie gras, which Paul assures us we can bring anywhere into the US - except Chicago. We do not know whether we will bring it home or eat it here.

As we are taking this picture outside of the shop, a French woman walks by and exclaims sarcastically "Sacre Bleu! Americans buying foie gras! Heresy!" She then laughingly takes a picture of the foie gras eating Americans to preserve for posterity. Personally, I think the whole foie gras "PC" thing is complete rubbish. It is one thing for a vegan to criticize foie gras, but anyone who eats any industrial meat or dairy product like beef, pork, chicken or eggs, has absolutely nothing to say about foie gras as far as I am concerned.

We enjoy a late lunch at Brasserie de l'Ile St-Louis, an eatery dating back to 1870...

I have the daily special "Veal Provence"...

Sigrid has pate'... ...we share a Friesee' salad with lardon...

... and a bottle of George Dubceuf Cote-de-Brouilly. The man in the blue sweatshirt strikes up a conversation with us. We discuss US and French politics, Obama, Sarkosy, and the 35 hour work week. His name is Vincent, has lived in Paris most of his life, is building a business in China, and gave us some more dining advice for Paris.

We don't mind the light rain as we enjoy some of the sights on the walk back to the hotel.

I on't know what this guy was fishing for, but he had four lines in the Seine.

Gallery Kevorkian? We didn't go in.

The street where we live - Rue des Saint Des Peres.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Flea Market and Food

Window shopping on the left bank.

Sunday, and most of the galleries and shops in our neighborhood are closed. We do a little window shopping, and head for the Museum d'Orsay, but decide the line is too long.

Instead, we visit the Paris Flea Market, and...

Sigrid finds some things that she likes.

There is little risk of a bad meal in Paris, but we still decided to dine at the same Brasserie we enjoyed the night before.There were too many tasty menu items to try at...

Le Café des Beaux Arts.

Tonight I had the...
Escargot

...and Duck Confit.

As we approach the summer solstice, the days continue to lengthen.

This was shot around 10 PM on Rue De Bac on the leisurely walk back to the hotel.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Americans in Paris

This marker on the grounds of Villa Saint Albergati is a reminder of when the main road ran by the villa, then a monastery.

We get to bed late, but awake early for last minute packing and to get on the road to the airport. Despite one of us being somewhat impaired by the previous night's activities, we manage to get ourselves loaded, in the car, and ready to go. While we are getting ready, each of the residents of Villa Wes & Susan wanders down the stairs to bid us adieu with a goodbye hug. I am not sure why they came down one at a time. I suspect that each was embarased to let the others know they will miss us. I know we will miss them. We were sorry to leave, but Paris awaits.

We manage to get to the Avignon airport early, despite a few wrong turns along the way.

Avignon and Palais des Papes from the window of the turboprop ATR 72 shortly after takeoff.

After the short flight and a taxi ride, we arrive in... Paris.

We enjoy a brief Rest and Recovery period in our 6th Arrondisement Hotel, then explore the neighborhood; and settle on the Beaux Arts Cafe for dinner.

The grilled lamb chops with fresh green beans was perfectly prepared and delicious.

Earlier in the day, as we landed at Orley, I thought I saw Air Force One on the tarmac. I was not quick enough to snap a picture as we taxied by, but learned later that it was indeed Air Force One. To our shock and dismay, we soon discovered we were not the only Americans in Paris:


"... the Americans and the French have had a privileged relationship for two centuries now,'' Sarkozy said. "When the United States of America was born, France made a choice. It was not a European choice, because we chose to side with the Americans of the United States of America, as opposed to Britain at the time. And in two world wars we've been together. We share the same values. "It is a privileged relationship, but it's not privileged since I came to be elected,'' said Sarkozy, sidestepping the fact that indeed the chill has thawed since Jacques Chirac, an outspoken opponent of the war in Iraq, left. "It's been privileged for two centuries now. "You can't neglect that. Now, through this -- throughout that, we have had ups and downs -- hiccups -- because two peoples -- I'm talking about the French and the American peoples -- that actually resemble one another. "We express our feelings,'' Sarkozy said. "The American people can be heard, and likewise for the French people. We have to be careful about this. We have to be mindful of this when we talk to one another in our relations."

Oddly enough, I miss Jacques Chirac. Perhaps because when all was said and done, he was right and Bush was wrong about Iraq.

Pass those French Fries er... I mean pomme frittes.