Brazil / Amazon Rain Forest Adventure Kendjam Fishing Lodge Reference Post & Index

I've done a lot traveling. But before this trip I'd never been to the Amazon, never been to Brazil, not even to South America (outside of a one day cruise ship stop in Caracas as a child).  This adventure trip to the Kendjam Fishing Lodge, located on the banks of the Iriri River flowing through the Amazonian wilderness, rectified that glaring oversight. I hesitate to call this a "once in a lifetime" adventure, as I've been proven wrong when making that statement in the past. But I won't hesitate to call it a trip of a lifetime. An extraordinary adventure, with fantastic fishing, unique travel experiences, made more meaningful and enjoyable because it was in the company of my brother Harlan and cousins Danny, Larry and Jared.

Eight anglers are hosted at the lodge each week of the fishing / dry season. Five of the eight was our family group. We met Dave, Brian and Dr. Fred at the lodge. Our trip was week seven of the Kendjam fishing season. Our seven days on the river (as well as our explorations in and around Manaus) are journaled in this blog and indexed below. The image at the top of this post is from the Kendjam Lodge summarizing our week at the lodge. The text of the report:

"Kendjam 2025 Season Fishing Report"

A Line Between Generations

Week 07 | July 26 – August 2

"Week 07 offered more than just technical fishing. We welcomed a family of five who came with a shared purpose, bringing both lightness and reflection to their days on the Kendjam. Their presence reminded us how the river connects stories across generations and how fly fishing can be both healing and joyful.

The river was in prime shape, and guests responded to its rhythm with both curiosity and control. Dry fly sessions lit up in several stretches, while streamer work yielded consistent results with larger species. As always, the Iriri River, with its more than 800 miles, rewarded focus and finesse, encouraging each fisherman to adapt and evolve.

Peacock bass were the main attraction, showing in size and numbers, but the range of species (matrinxã to payara) kept everyone adjusting, experimenting, and discovering new layers of what this jungle river has to offer. Each day felt unique, shaped by the rhythm of the river and the group's growing bond with it."

ANGLERS: 8 Guests

WATER CONDITIONS

• Water Color: Glistening and pure, with that glass-like clarity
• Water Level: Low and steadily dropping

WEATHER CONDITIONS

• Temperature: Averaging 33°C (91.4°F) during the day and 20°C (68°F) at night
• Skies: Consistently sunny and bright throughout the week with a scattered shower by last day.

WEEKLY STATS

Total Fish Landed: 327

Standout Catches:

• Wolf Fish 88 cm (34.6 in)
• Peacock Bass 65 cm (25.6 in)
• Matrinxã 52 cm (20.5 in)
• Bicuda 87 cm (34.3 in)
• Pacu Rubber 48 cm (18.9 in)
• Pacu Silver 38 cm (15 in)
• Payara 85 cm (33.5 in)

UNFORGETTABLE MOMENT

"Fred, Fred, and Fred. At 84 years old, this fly angler brought more than skill — he brought a spirit. With 55 years of casting behind him, Dr. Fred turned every session into a masterclass, not just in technique but in how to embrace each moment on the water. A true legend with a smile to match every cast."

This reference post may periodically be updated with info and links about the journey. We'll start with this chronological index linking the journal entries for each day of our Amazon Adventure:

Posting Date	Post Title
07/21/25	Dancing Again... ORD => IAH => BOG => MAO
07/22/25	Manaus
07/23/25	Teatras Amazonas and Acclimatizing
07/24/25	The Meeting of Waters & Meeting of Clans
0725/25	Preparing for Kendjam (+ Piranha)
07/26/25	Flying and Floating to the Kendjam Fishing Lodge
07/27/25	Fishing at Last
07/28/25	It's called "fishing" not "catching"
07/29/25	The Kendjam 'Gram
07/30/25	“A Flyrod Day! A Red Day! A Pacu Day!"
07/31/25	The Wallach Double
08/01/25	Last Dance, Last Chance, Last Cast
08/02/25	Back to Manaus
08/03/25	Manaus & Teddy Roosevelt Redux
08/04/25	MAO => GRU => ORD
08/05/25	Amazon Adventure Index (This Post)

To be continued...

Amazon Adventure Day 12 - Back to Manaus

The morning mist on the river reflected our mood as we gathered our things for the boat ride back to the Kendjam village.There we'll board our Cessna flight back to Manaus.

It was an exciting boat ride downstream through the rapids to the Kendjam Lodge on our first day here. It was even more exciting traveling upstream through the same rapids to get back to the village. There were a few spots where we disembarked and hiked a bit while boats were dragged upriver through shallow rapids.

 And more excitement when shooting up a two foot waterfall between rocks in the river. I was continually impressed with the skill and moxie of native guide boat drivers and paddlers. 

In the village we had time to relax and shop local crafts while waiting for our ride.

Solar array powering Starlink in Kendjam

Then, back on the plane for another 4+ hours to get back to Manaus with a stop for gas along the way.

Our last look at the Iriri River as we took off...

... and a look at Manaus as we landed.

 Back in Manaus, we had one more group dinner at the Juma Opera Hotel, toasting each other and the trip before saying our farewells. Everyone except Harlan and I were to be picked up and returned to the airport a little after midnight this same night, just a few hours after our long day getting here. This apparently due to something they called "work".  We elected to relax and  spend another day and night in Manaus.

I finish the night with an "Insomnia" served by my favorite bartender Victor. 

The Insomnia - Irish whiskey, guarana syrup, basil and lemon juice

Despite the name of the drink, I fell asleep the minute my head hit the pillow. 

Amazon Adventure Day 11 - Last Dance, Last Chance, Last Cast

Catch of the Day (and Week and Year) - HW with Wolf Fish

 Fishing Day 6:

Guide: Ciru
Native Guides: Nee, Bep bu Di
Fishing Beat: 2
Quote of the Day: "It's the dry season. But it's also the Amazon Rain Forest."  - Brian
Other Quote of the Day: "The wolf fish is the stupidest fish." - Ciru
Other Other Quote of the Day:"I told you." - MW 

Rainbow over the Iriri River

Our last day fishing was ushered in with thunder, lightning and a driving rain overnight. By morning the rain subsided. A few light showers gave way to a spectacular rainbow over the boats, a mystical gateway to our last day on the river.   

Ciru was our guide today. We told him the same story we've told every guide the last few days. More wading and less fishing from the boat. And we'd like to get a wolf fish. 

This clip was supposed to end with me catching a fish. It didn't. 

Ciru tried. Anywhere a wolf fish might be found on our beat, he put us in a position to catch one. With some of the most spectacular river scenery yet. We did catch more fish. More peacock bass. More piranha. But no wolf fish. Until...

It was late afternoon. Time was running out. Last day. Last afternoon. Ciru guided me to a spot where a feeder stream flowed into the Iriri. I was casting across the stream to a rock face under a tree. Another likely wolf fish lair. Harlan was wading upriver with the native guides.  Far enough away that we could barely hear the commotion. I saw Nee running back and shouting. Ciru looked at me and said "He has a wolf fish!".  I said "Go get the picture!" There was no way I could get across the stream and to Harlan's location in time. "Wait. Do you have a camera?" Ciru shook his head no. I knew Harlan left his in the boat. "Here..." I tossed my phone to him. "If it locks out, the pin is [REDACTED]". Ciru was across the stream and out of sight in seconds, heading to Harlan's location, carrying my phone with my entire life on it, and with the pin that accessed everything. No matter. Getting the picture was the only thing that mattered now. 

He got the picture. A lot of them.

Harlan later described what I did not see: 

"We spent 7 days at the Kendjam Camp fishing on the Iriri River. Caught 8 species of fish I’d never seen before but the Amazonian Wolf Fish had evaded me. On the last day, in the last hour, on my last cast before heading back to camp I caught this beast. The native Kayapo warrior behind me, Bep bu Di, jumped in to the neck-deep water to net this fish. An amazing experience all around." - HW

Amazing indeed. What a way to finish. Almost mystical. 

With the magicians: L to R - MW, Nee, Ciru, HW, Bep bu Di

Our last dinner at the lodge tasted particularly good. 

A magical day. A magical week. A magical trip. 

All that's left to say is  "I told you."

Oh wait. Almost forgot. The Requisite Daily Token Heller Fish Pic...

Larry also caught a Wolf Fish.

Amazon Adventure Day 10 - The Wallach Double

Catch of the Day - The Wallach Double

 Fishing Day 5:

Guide: Christian
Native Guides: [Didn't get the names]
Fishing Beat: 4
QOD (Quote of the Day): "It was worse in Kamchatka."  - Dr. Fred

Christian is our guide today. We revisit and reexplore the same beat as as our first fishing day on the Iriri with Ezekiel. Which was a very good day. On that first day we didn't know what to expect. It was all new and simply catching fish, regardless of size and species, felt like a cause for celebration and photo documentation. There's just as much excitement and anticipation today on day 5, but we may be a little jaded and set our expectations a bit higher. We explain our objectives for the day to Christian. We want more fishing while wading than fishing from the boat. And we'd like to focus on catching a wolf fish. 

We didn't meet all of our goals for the day, but as far as exceeding expectations, our double catch cleared the bar. We were drifting down a narrow channel between rocks. Harlan was fly fishing portside from the front of the boat. I was spin casting to the starboard side from the middle of the boat. Peacock Bass hit both of us at the same time. We reeled them both in. - "The Wallach Double":

Jockeying for the close-up. 

Definitely the highlight of the day. You might also notice there is bite out of the tail of Harlan's bass. That courtesy of a piranha attacking the bass as he was landing the fish. 

Of course the Hellers have to try and one-up us. They post a triple from their boat, which I grudgingly submit here as the Token Heller Fish Pic of the Day:

The Heller Triple

Not to put too fine a point on this, but it's worth mentioning that you can only get a triple if you have three anglers in a boat that was intended for two. There were two Wallachs in our boat. There were three Hellers in their boat. I think you can see where I am going with this. If Wendy and Robyn were in the boat with us, we would have had a Home Run Quad. 

More stuff happened this day. Some more fish. Some nice scenery. Wildlife. Another whiff on the wolf fish hunt. But everything else was an afterthought after the Wallach Double. Some more pics & vids from the day:

More Fishing

More Fish - Peacock Bass...

Piranha

Skunked again at another wolf fish lair

The Iriri

Back at the Lodge, drinks, dinner and Dr. Fred fish stories were excellent. 

Harlan had three helpings. 

Amazon Adventure Day 8 - The Kendjam 'Gram

My Catch of the Day - Photo Credit JV

Our third day on the River and the halfway point for Kendjam Lodge fishing experience on the Iriri.  It's Danny's turn to get inked before heading out.

Fishing Day 3

Guide: Joao (JV)
Native Guides: Foguinho, Pebcue
Fishing Beat: 2
QOD (Quotes of the Day): "Tep Kokoi!" and "Tep Ken!" - Native Guides 

Today and tomorrow we'll have Joao as our guide and I'm delighted we have him for two days. To be clear, all the guides are great. They love fishing, know what they are doing,  go about their business in an efficient and professional manner, make sure each angler's gear is properly configured for success, and are always quick to take action - whether its wrestling the boat, netting a fish, replacing flies, leaders, lures or freeing a snagged cast. Can't say enough about how impressed and appreciative I am of their work with us. 

That said, Joao has a unique skill. He's broken the code on composing pictures and videos of anglers with their catch. It seems that most of the best shots on the Kendjam website and social media are his handiwork. Yesterday's image of Larry's catch was a JV composition. My goal of the day is to have a JV photo worthy catch. 

First, I should explain the native guide QODs. When we're fishing from the boat, we're often drifting downstream in briskly moving water, casting to rocks or water near the shore under overhanging bushes and tree branches. Harlan fly fishes from the front of the boat and I'm spin casting from the middle back. Inevitably we cut a cast too close and snag a tree branch or rock. Which precipitates a call of...

"Tep Kokoi!" 

"Tep Kokoi!"  translates to "Monkey Fish!" - The native guides are amused that we are casting into trees - apparently trying to catch a monkey. Similarly "Tep Ken!" translates to "Rock Fish!" as we apparently attempt to hook rocks out of the bottom of the River. You get the idea. 

But we did actually hook into some "Tep Tep" (Fish Fish) this day. Harlan let JV know that we would prefer to do more wet wading than casting from a moving boat and JV obliged.  JV found a spot where a feeder stream fed into the main river. The native guides wrestled the boat around some rapids while Harlan and JV waded upstream. The Kendjam guides are all accomplished fly fisherman and I think they prefer to guide with fly fisherman than us lowly spin casters. Elitists one and all. Anyway, this led to one of my prouder catches. With Harlan and JV around the bend, and the native guides downstream with the boat, I hooked a nice bicuda. 

 

Don't worry about me, I got this...

Not only did I hook him, but I landed him without a net, as there was no one with a net in sight. Needing to document the catch, I balanced the phone on a rock, turned on the timer delay, got the shot, and released the fish. 

Meanwhile, around the bend, I was glad to see Harlan getting some guidance, quality net and photo work from JV while landing this Peacock Bass. 

It was a great day fishing for both of us. I got 5 Peacocks, 1 Jakunda, 1 Matrinxa and 3 or more piranhas. Harlan had at least that many. Most importantly, I got my JV Original Peacock Pose Pic and Vid. He posted it as an Instagram story which goes away in 24 hours (Which I really don't understand - What's the point?).  But he also sent me the source pics and, with Jared's help (I don't use the 'Gram much), I posted it it on my Instagram account  and on my Facebook account. 

Another of my favorite bass pics by JV

Some more pics of my catches this day: 

My first Matrinxa

The native guides were impressed with the Matrinxa and Piranha catch

New species for me - a cute Jakunda

Harlan also had a great day...

Harlan's best bicuda, best matrinxa, & best peacock bass.

Cousin Danny was whining about the lack of cousin pics in this blog. Which is primarily due to the fact that they were in another boat and I don't have their pics. However, I try to accommodate and, going forward, will include a Token Heller Fish Pic of the Day in my posts. 

Danny's big bicuda

Back at the lodge - more fish stories, more drinks, more good food, and more good cheer.

Snacks accompanied fish stories at the end of the day.

Dinner - Roughing it in the Jungle

My "Go To" drink at the lodge - The Jovani Gin and Tonic

Oh Yeah. We also played cards. Back to Euchre. Harlan opted out, so I teamed with Jared against Larry and Danny.  We took two out of three. And I remain undefeated. 

Amazon Adventure Day 7 - It's called "fishing" not "catching"

The Green Wall

"The lofty and matted forest rose like a green wall on either hand. The trees were stately and beautiful. The looped and twisted vines hung from them like great ropes. Masses of epiphytes grew both on the dead trees and the living; some had huge leaves like elephants’ ears. Now and then fragrant scents were blown to us from flowers on the banks. There were not many birds, and for the most part the forest was silent; rarely we heard strange calls from the depths of the woods, or saw a cormorant or ibis." - Teddy Roosevelt, "Through the Brazilian Wilderness"

Today it's our turn to have the mystical body adornment applied. Expectations are high for Day 2 on the river. 

I'm liking this look.

The itinerary for our second day on the river is the same as the first. As will be the next four days. 

Fishing Day 2
Guide: Ezekiel
Native Guides: Menhmro, Bepayre
Fishing Beat: 3

QOD (Quote of the Day): "As the saying goes - Lucky in cards, unlucky in fish." - MW 

We head out full of confidence proudly displaying our new ink... 

There is no getting around it. We did not have a good day fishing. I had plenty of strikes but kept losing them due to my Midwest fishing instincts. I did land a piranha, but it was not photo worthy. Harlan had better luck than me, landing some peacock bass and piranha. But certainly disappointing compared to yesterday. 

  

Here Harlan with a Peacock Bass and me with a desiccated baby Pacu. Ezekial brought the Pacu to me while Harlan was fly fishing from shore and I was thrashing the water with my lure from the boat. I guess he wanted to be sure I had a fish in my hand before the day was out. Very considerate of him. 

Given the lack of fishing success, today is a good day to post some scenic Iriri River landscapes. 

 

I can't blame Ezekial or the native guides for my fishing performance today. They put us on fish all day. I just couldn't land them. 

Others had better luck this day. As noted elsewhere, I am trying to accommodate some of the incessant whining coming from the cousins about insufficient photos of their catches. Despite the fact that they were in another boat and I don't have their pics, I try to accommodate. Today's Token Heller Fish Pic of the Day:

Jared lands a monster payara.

 

One nice thing about the Kendjam Lodge experience - Regardless of whether you had a successful fishing day or not... At the end of the day, after nine hours on the river, when you trudge up the beach back to the lodge, Jovani has a delicious snack ready and Allie is waiting to greet you with a smile and a cold drink.

Dinner, as usual, was delicious. Moqueca's Fish was everyone's favorite.

After dinner, drinks, and many more fish stories (everyone had a much better day fishing than us), the conversation turned to cards. Larry was again insisting we play Euchre - a game with which I was completely unfamiliar. But, I agreed - thinking that losing at Euchre might improve our fishing odd the next day (see QOD at top of this post). Harlan and I teamed against Larry and Jared. We played two games with a win each. We never got to the rubber game due to a ruling dispute. Larry is just bad at explaining the rules of the game. Or he was changing the rules from one game to the next. Don't know. In any case we left it as a tie and I remain undefeated.