Amazon Adventure Day 13 - Manaus & Teddy Roosevelt Redux

The venue and the show.

The cousins are on their way back to the states. Harlan and I chose to spend another night at the Juma Opera Hotel in Manaus to recover, relax, and enjoy another performance at the Teatra Amazonas across the street.

I started this travel journal by invoking Teddy Roosevelt's memoir about his 1914 expedition down the River of Doubt in Brazil. I thought it would be fun to find and post extracts from the journal that are relevant and/or vaguely comparable to our Amazon adventure. But, until perusing the hotel brochure, I did not realize that at the completion of his journey, Roosevelt stayed in the same building as we are staying now: 

"In the early 20th century, the Juma Opera Hotel building housed the Consulate of the United States of America. Around this time, Theodore Roosevelt, the US ex-President. was officially invited by the Brazilian government to take part in a scientific expedition to the Amazon region and its rivers... During his visit to Manaus, Roosevelt stayed awhile in the American Consulate, in the very same building that now houses our Hotel." - Juma Opera Hotel Brochure

Teddy's description of his stay in Manaus was complimentary to the city, but he was less than forthcoming about his own health at the end of the trip:

"Every one was most courteous at Manaos, especially the governor of the state and the mayor of the city. Mr. Robiliard, the British consular representative, and also the representative of the Booth line of steamers, was particularly kind. He secured for us passages on one of the cargo boats of the line to Para... Belen and Manaos are very striking examples of what can be done in the mid-tropics. The governor of Para and his charming wife were more than kind." -  Teddy Roosevelt, "Through the Brazilian Wilderness"

Candice Millard's biography painted a more complete picture:

"Physically at least, Theodore Roosevelt was not the same man he had been when he left New York nearly eight months earlier. Even Leo Miller, who had endured dangers and deprivations of his own during his descent of the Gy-Paraná, had been horrified when he saw Roosevelt in Manáos, writing that his commander had “wasted to a mere shadow of his former self.” For his trip from Manáos to Pará, Brazil, Roosevelt had been transported to his steamship in an ambulance and carried on board on a stretcher." - Candice Millard,  "The River of Doubt: Theodore Roosevelt's Darkest Journey"

Teddy and me in the hotel bar. 

There were plenty of opportunities for injury and sickness on this adventure. We frequently were wading over slippery sharp rocks in the river. There are many stinging, biting, and venomous critters in the Amazon including bees, flies, mosquitos, scorpions, spiders, snakes, sting rays, electric eels, and piranhas. And we saw most of them over the course of the week, some inside our cabin. 

A couple of uninvited guests in the cabin.

And, of course, for travelers experiencing different cuisine, intestinal distress is always a risk. That said, I am happy to report that except for a minor scrape and a single mosquito bite, Harlan and I avoided all of this while at the Kendjam Lodge. Which brings me to my own tragic injury on this adventure. 

It occurred at the danger filled location of the hotel rooftop pool and bar. Victor, my favorite bartender, was on duty. After a cooling swim, I bellied up to the bar and asked for a local brew in a glass.  As I reached for a sip, I bumped the glass, then lunged for it, grabbing broken glass as it hit the bar and taking a slice out of my finger tip. It created quite a bloody mess. Ever the professional, Victor poured me another one, cleaned up the mess, and procured bandage material. Not necessarily in that order. 

No harm, no foul. 

That evening we strolled across the street to the square...

...where an impromptu concert was underway.

Then we were ushered in to the Teatro Amazonas...

... for another enjoyable performance in that spectacular venue.

Après theater, back to the square and dinner al fresco at Tambaqui de Banda.

Where we ordered the signature dish also named "Tambaqui de Banda". 

A great finish to a wonderful trip. Tomorrow we fly. 

SFO => ORD => Wrigley Field

 Wrigley Field Bleachers 5/20/21 

One would think that, during a pandemic, when one is mostly constrained to staying home, one would become more productive on indoor activities like maintaining a blog. One would be wrong. 

It's been a year since I lasted posted on this blog. No excuses. No explanation. However, there is a certain symmetry. My last post documented my annual pilgrimage to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, running the travel gauntlet in the early days of the pandemic. Now, I am getting back on the blogging horse by documenting the same trip while fully vaccinated and in the waning days of the pandemic.  A lot that happened in the intervening months, and maybe someday I'll backfill some intervening notable experiences. Probably not, but it could happen.

In the meantime, let's proceed from this moment and just pretend that last year didn't happen.

As noted, we're vaccinated, the pandemic light at the end of the tunnel is in sight, but we're still in the tunnel and it's prudent to take precautions.  As I did last year, booked a red-eye on a big jet, hoping for fewer passengers, empty seats and planning for an early morning transit through O'Hare. Took Uber to SFO, sailed through security and got on board. As it turns out, the flight was packed. Still,  I was impressed with United's more comfortable improved seats and screens in "Economy Plus" on board this 777.

 

 

Harlan met me at the airport early and armed with day game Wrigley Field bleacher tickets. We got there in time for batting practice. 

When trying to get used to "normal" again, what better place to attend my first large scale public event than a Cubs game at Wrigley?

Hi Harry!

 
Usual fare

 

This was the last game with pandemic restricted attendance...

... which afforded us a unique opportunity in the right field bleachers,

I doubt that I will ever again be able to stretch out like this in the bleachers during a beautiful day game at Wrigley Field. Once in a lifetime. 

Cubs win 5-2:

"CHICAGO -- — Playing without two of their biggest bats, the Chicago Cubs found enough offense once again. Ian Happ led the way. Happ homered twice and drove in three runs, helping Chicago beat the Washington Nationals 5-2 on Thursday."

A great start to the trip. 

A Day In Barcelona

Thanks to generous and trusting friends of friends, my one full day in Barcelona was not limited to eating trail mix and husbanding my last seven euros for the metro ride back to the airport (as I thought it might upon my arrival).  Nuff said about yesterday's series of unfortunate events. I had one day to explore Barcelona for the first time and was not going miss the opportunity.

I am staying in the Gothic Quarter, and started the day by by downloading and following Rick Steves Audio Tour of Barcelona, as recommended by my seatmate on the flight over. My intent was to see and do everything there was to see and do in Barcelona. I assumed one day would be enough. Herein a selection of photos on how I did.  You be the judge.

Placa de Calalunya and The Rambles - Wherein I learn that one can sit on a bench on a busy pedestrian boulevard and not bury your nose in your phone.

Catedral de Barcelona - Where I learn the significance of 13

Jewish Quarter - Where I learn that in 1492 Ferdinand & Isabella not only sent Columbus to sail the ocean blue, but also purged all Jews from Barcelona.

Placa de Sant Jaume - Wherein I learn the administrative center of Barcelona and Catalonia is frequently the site of large protests attended primarily by young attractive women and girls.

Sagrada Familia - Wherein I learn you can get almost anything built in 150 years or less, and there are 400 scary steps down from the Passion Tower.

Picasso Museum, Friezes and Watering Hole - Wherein I learn I can make my wife jealous by exploring the art and locations to be found in the location of Picasso's formative years.

Tapas - Wherein I learn that tapas are like... um... uh... Martinis! Three are too many, one is not enough.

I intended to take a siesta after my tapas snack, then head back out for a late seaside Catalonian dinner. But I never quite recovered from the siesta after the frenetic activity of the day. That leaves something left to do when I return, and I certainly will someday.